Building raised beds, fences, patios, trellis etc, this is what hard landscaping is all about.
Preparing the site
Hard landscaping is the backbone and the skeleton of the garden, but before we can start the site has to be cleared of all weeds, (use glyphosate weed killer at least 3 weeks before
Starting, this will kill the plant roots), rubble, old paths and buildings, also any plants, trees etc that are not needed.
When this has been done the site then has to be levelled or terraced depending on your design that you worked out to scale on graph paper earlier.
Mark out the hard landscaping site to show where new buildings, paths etc are going to go. When you have all your levels, then put in the boundaries by erecting fences, walls etc, around the site, this will define the area more clearly in which you are working.
Paths and Patios
Hard landscaping the site for the patio area includes, removing any loose top soil and digging away any sub soil until you have the correct depth.
A fall of 1 in 80 is wanted to allow for surface water to drain away, usually to the lawn or planted border. The area should then be well firmed using a plate compactor.
Paving slabs should be laid on 100mm of compacted hardcore topped with 50mm of sand. Once the slabs have been laid then set the edge restraints in place using bricks, timber or pre-cast concrete.
Paths that will not get as much use can be laid on compacted sub soil with a 50mm sand base.
Raised Beds
Well designed raised beds add interest to flat gardens and allow a smooth transition between different levels in a sloping garden.
Raised beds can be of various heights, usually from 30cm up to
a height of 60cm. Up to this height using wood, brick, stone or concrete no special expertise is required, however above this height it is best to seek the advice of a builder.
Creating beds of different heights will add visual interest, joining up the different levels.
The first course of bricks should be below ground level, leaving drainage gaps every 3 -4 bricks. Before filling the beds with soil lay down 10cm of grave in the base to help drainage.
Railway Sleepers
Hard landscaping does not all mean bricks and mortar. Railway sleepers are reasonably cheap
and make excellent material for raised beds. Sleepers are heavy to work with and ooze tar in hot weather,
ruling them out if young children are going to be playing near them.
Pressure treated gravel boards used for the bottom of fence panels are a cheap way to create raised beds,
these can be stained to match other woodwork i.e. fencing.
Trellis work, Arches and Pergolas
Trellis work usually comes made of treated softwood and can be used for adding height and decoration to the tops of fencing panels and for dividing up the garden.
Arches and Pergolas add instant height to a garden and year round interest. Arches can be positioned to signal a change in the garden, say from formal to informal, from plants to vegetables etc, or placed at the beginning or end of the garden and should really be attached to another structure.
Pergolas are no more than plant covered walkways, a series of arches spanning a pathway.
Water Features
Water features are part of hard landscaping because they have to be built. Raised formal ponds should have a solid structure made from bricks or blocks usually of double thickness to withstand the water pressure.
The pond is made waterproof by the use of a butyl liner, fibreglass being better but more expensive.
Informal ponds are irregular in shape and are sunk into the ground. Mark out the shape and depth allowing for shelves for the marginal plants. Sides should slope by up to 20 degrees.
Remove all stones and cover the base with old carpet, damp sand, a geo-textile membrane or similar to provide a cushion for the pond liner. When filling with water keep the liner stretched to remove any creases, when full trim the liner to the shape of the pond allowing an overlap.
A half barrel can make a small water feature to stand on the patio near the house, filled with a miniature water lily and pond plants
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